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Day 54 – Varberg to Gothenburg
Swedish bitters An internet-free day cycling north along the Kattegattleden 1 track towards Gothenburg. The cycle track is well signposted and easy going. This has got to be the most beautiful part of Sweden? Swathes of soft oats and mixed greens blow along the rocky coastline. Shining water dotted with islands, humble harbours and red […]
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Day 52 and 53 – Ängelholm – Halmstad – Varberg
Long distance solo cycling, 3500 kms south of Goteborg on my way to Oslo
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Day 44 – 45 – Zeven to Hamburg
The day began at Zeven. Cycling happily between perfectly manicured and manured farms. Paved cycle paths travel parallel to the main roads towards Buxtehude. In town the tranquil pedestrian zone is decorated with copious flower baskets. I make a reconnaissance mission into a shop to buy a lightweight jacket. It’s the first time I’ve been […]
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Days 28 and 29 – Erstein – Strasbourg – Marienthal
Today I rode passed an army barracks onto a narrow path in the woods. A regiment of soldiers came jogging at me in single file. Unfortunately I couldn’t get a good look as I was forced to concentrate on the necessary avoidance manoeuvre. Narrow paths can be treacherous with tufts of thorny blackberries and hidden […]
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Day 27 – Freiburg to Erstein – Cycling
A bicycle has two sides to it. Not only is cycling a mood altering activity but is virtually harmless to our Earth. It also cures diseases of the body, mind and soul. Better than yoga, better than pills, even better than a glass of wine. You can pedal elegantly along at thinking speed or beat […]
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Day 22 and 23 – Rorschach to Tägerwilen to Waldshut
My paper supply has run out so I had to use my colour tester blotting page for the illustration today. Jumped on the bike at 7:30 this morning to find only 30 kms of battery life on the display…of course I could pedal without power, but it’s going to be like riding a cow instead […]
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Day 21-Stuben to Rorschach-going down
Dropping down from the arms of the lovely mountain today, with the Alfenz stream happily cascading at my side. From Stuben to Bludenz to Nenzing to Feldkirch. Dropping as a spider does, black wheels spinning below the Scots Pines. White water widens into a deep teal river and you can see the trout. As the […]
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Day 5 – San Filippo to Buonconvento
The sky is dark to the point of purple and rain splatters our faces. Eventually we stop and take some miserable shelter under a tree. Passing trucks dash us with dirty road spray. The sky relents slightly so we make our soggy way to San Quirico d’Orcia in search of lunch. The exquisite wild salad […]
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Day 4 – Bolsena to Bagni San Filippo
Yesterday was a sore day. This morning both my Brooks saddle and the scenery are breathtaking. We set off after a hearty goodbye to our nun, and take the back road up and out of the crater. Stopping to look over our shoulders at Lake Bolsena who winks at us with one blue eye. Simon […]
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Day 3 – Vetralla to Bolsena
Day 3 – Flying along on the bike this morning. Legs pump away the back pain, but the saddle, oooh the saddle. I try to be stoic. My bum blisters have ballooned. One on each cheek. I haven’t seen them yet, but they feel like incorporated gel cushions. At the coffee bar in Vetralla, a […]
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Day 2 – Formello to Vetralla
Doris from Bremen introduces herself to us outside the Chapel of the Madonna del Sorba. She is walking the pilgrimage with an Italian guide, north to south like you’re supposed to. We are going contro-signage, so taking the backward facing arrows when we see them. She kindly offered me accommodation when I reach Bremen. I’m […]
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Day 1 – Marino to Formello – via Rome.
Rome the Eternal city – “Aaah bella Roma” once you are caught in her seductive “La Dolce Vita” embrace, you will become an overly emotional lover who can never leave. At approximately 2800 years old everything from the damp decay of frescoed tombs to her high-flying arches and golden orbs on moonlit domes, from baroque […]
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Andiamo
Andiamo Departure day is here with an early start. The sky is a sharp blue. I put on my padded tights trying to “be like water” as Bruce Lee, the karate guru, once advised. He is known to have said “water can flow, but it can also crash”. Crashing is my biggest concern. Nevertheless, I […]
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Ready steady
In this post we are getting ready to leave Marino Laziale and ride our bicycles to Rome and beyond.
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1 – THE BIKE RIDE
She stands waiting calmly for departure day, glinting with red reflectors in the dark grotto below our apartment.