Day 44 – 45 – Zeven to Hamburg

Elbphilharmonie Hamburg, watercolour by Leanne Talbot Nowell

The day began at Zeven.

Cycling happily between perfectly manicured and manured farms. Paved cycle paths travel parallel to the main roads towards Buxtehude.

In town the tranquil pedestrian zone is decorated with copious flower baskets. I make a reconnaissance mission into a shop to buy a lightweight jacket. It’s the first time I’ve been in a shop, other than two brief escapades into an ebike store, since that supermarket when my glasses and hat were stolen. It feels really weird to be in a woman’s dress shop. I feel neither woman nor man, I’m a fusion these days.

From Buxtehude apparently there is a pleasant route directly into Hamburg. Ignorance is NOT bliss. Following the googley girl’s directions turn out to be a noisy road along the edge of the highway to Harburg (har har) and then north into a spaghetti of bridges and intersections where my phone battery expires and leaves me stranded.

At a rough place that sells soda someone told me it is possible to go into town from all directions (?)

One direction will do please. Thank God for church steeples. They have a higher purpose.

Hamburg is a stunning port city with a difficult history of fire, plague and war. But obviously the population is clever and resilient so they have created a splendid city once again.

Not terribly difficult to find the way to Regina and Mica’s place. They have kindly invited me to spend the night at their lovely apartment in the most swish part of town. Regina is an interior decorator and it shows.

She has hired ebikes so she, and her fifteen year old niece Zoe, can ride with me tomorrow. Looking forward to some company. But the clouds have gone berserk and rain is falling in buckets.

Day 45

After an abundant breakfast we decide not to ride out until the rain subsides a bit. I’m happy to have a day of rest to tell you the truth. It has been a solid week of riding all day and my butt is in agony.

Regina drives us around to explore all the most interesting and beautiful sights in Hamburg. She is an expert on all the most secret, best and most enticing places. We visited the sparkling new Elbphilharmonie, a shining architectural crown and took a ferry around the harbour. Then walked along the waterfront looking for milkshakes. Rain didn’t matter.

Finally got to eat a proper Hamburger with sweet potato chips. The day ended with a night walk in the Speicherstadt, a UNESCO world heritage site, where the huge old brick warehouses have now been transformed into luxury estates. Hamburg certainly has a wealth of history. Not short of contemporary wealth as well.

See the map route here

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Buxtehude and surrounds

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Going into Hamburg, on this bridge for bikes
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outskirts of Hamburg
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Regina and Michael
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There is a shortage of photography to the disastrous crash of my hard drive. Hope to have them professionally retrieved soon.

3 responses to “Day 44 – 45 – Zeven to Hamburg”

  1. It must be amazing to travel in bikes and arrive in a city like Hamburg 🙂 I remember my trip there and had a great time! have a great week and cheers from Lisbon, PedroL

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